Adoro Alba

You know how they say that Disneyland is the happiest place on earth? Whoever said that hasn't been to Alba. I thank my Canadian friend (whom I also happened to steal photos from, and who also makes baked goods like you've never tasted before) for discovering this gem of a town, and for making sure that we went during the annual truffle festival. We only spent a couple of days there; day one was for exploring the town, and day two was for the truffle fair. 

Alba is tiny and very walkable, so right after we got there we wandered off in search of somewhere to eat truffles. We finally got settled, and planned to order three dishes with truffles so that we could taste a bit of everything. Each dish was only 8€, so it was logical to order three, right? We ask for the first dish, and the server tells us, "Ok, so that's 8€ for the dish, and today's market price for the white truffles is 30€. So 38€ for that dish." "ABORT. We'll only take two dishes, and truffles on only one."

With our bellies full, we kept exploring the city. We saw countless people walking around with wine glasses around their necks (best invention ever) and we finally had to ask where one goes to obtain such a lifetime of joy. The Truffle Fair, obviously! But as not to go into sensory overload, we postponed that trip until day two. Day one ended with unintentional aperitivo, and dinner at Osteria dei Sognatori. What's unintentional aperitivo? Oh, well that's when you buy a glass of prosecco for 3.50, and then they bring you each a plate of pasta to go with it. Life is full of beautiful surprises. Also, if you go to Alba, you must go to Osteria dei Sognatori for dinner. I don't care if you have to wait, do it and thank me later. And when they ask you if they can just bring a mix of appetizers that you might like? Smile and nod.

The next day, we were off to the Truffle Fair. This was the moment where I wished I had brought a bigger suitcase. We spent the next few hours on a tasting spree. Cheeses, meats, pastas, sauces, dips, spreads, WINES. And then a few more wines. People had their truffles out in display cases, but with price tags like 320€ attached, I avoided those. All in all I came home with truffled versions of the following: cheese, olive oil, balsamic, parmesan cream, honey, pasta, salt, tomato sauce, rice, and polenta. No regrets, just a meal plan for the next year. 

Lessons learned:
1. White truffles are WAY more expensive than black truffles, but WAY more tastier.
2. Carne cruda is melt-in-your-mouth amazing. 
3. If you spend enough time around truffles, people will begin to compliment you on your perfume.
4. Wine.

Truffle products galore. And a wine necklace.

Photo Credit: Christine

Sapete come si dice che Disneyland è il posto più felice del mondo? Mi dispiace, ma chi ha detto questo, non è mai stato ad Alba. Ringrazio la mia amica canadese (da cui ho rubato delle foto, e anche che fa i dolci più buoni di milano) per aver scoperto questa gioia di città, e per aver organizzato il nostro viaggio durante la fiera dei tartufi. Eravamo lì solo un paio di giorni. Un giorno per fare un giro della città, e l'altro per la fiera.

Alba è piccolissima, e subito dopo siamo arrivate, siamo andate a cercare un posto per mangiare i tartufi. Dopo un po' di tempo, eravamo a tavola con la decisione di prendere tre piatti con i tartufi per provare un po' di tutto. Ogni piatto costava solo 8€ più il costo dei tartufi, quindi abbiamo deciso di prenderne tre. Giusto, no? Chiediamo il primo piatto e il cameriere ci dice' «Allora, sono 8€ per il piatto, e il prezzo oggi per i tartufi è 30€. Quindi quel piatto sarà 38€.» «STOP. Prendiamo solo due piatti, e solo uno con i tartufi.»

Sazie, abbiamo fatto un giro della città. Vedendo così tante persone con un bicchiere di vino come collana, dovevamo chiedere dove trovarle. La Fiera dei Tartufi, ovviamente! Però visto che sembrava un'avventura per una giornata, abbiamo deciso di andare il giorno prossimo. Il primo giorno è finito con un aperitivo sconosciuto, e la cena all'Osteria dei Sognatori. Cos'è un'aperitivo sconosciuto? Beh, è quando prendi un bicchiere di prosecco a 3,50€ e ti portano un piatto di pasta. Che bella sorpresa! Se andate ad Alba, dovete andare all'Osteria dei Sognatori per la cena. Non me ne frega se dovete aspettare un'ora, andate e ringraziatemi dopo. E quando vi chiedono se possono portarvi un misto degli antipasti? Dite di sì.

Il giorno prossimo, la Fiera dei Tartufi! Era al questo momento che volevo avere una valigia più grande. Le prossime ore erano passate assaggiando tutto. Formaggi, salumi, pasta, sughi, creme, vini. E poi più vini. C'erano i tartufi esposti, ma quando costano 320€ ciascuno è meglio comprarti qualcosa profumata di tartufo. Alla fine sono tornata a Milano con formaggio, olio, balsamico, crema di parmeggiano, miele, pasta, sale, sugo, riso e polenta. No cambierei niente, e almeno così so cosa mangio per il prossimo anno.

Cosa ho imparato?
1. I tartufi bianchi costano MOLTO di più che quelli neri, ma hanno un sapore MOLTO più buono.
2. Carne cruda è da sognare.
3. Se passi abbastanza tempo con i tartufi, la gente inizia a dirti «Ma che bel profumo!»
4. Vino.

There's No Place Like Where Wine is Cheaper Than Water.

A quick trip back home, and before I knew it I was on a plane back to Milan. I had to get back for VFNO, fashion week, and my internship! I had one day to run all my errands before going to work for the next three weeks straight. One major errand was turning my visa into a permesso, which really shouldn't be that hard. But, as you all remember from last September, everyone likes to know nothing about anything, and I was sent in so many circles. Here's a play-by-play:

Olivia: "Excuse me, but are you sure that this is where I have to go when I get back to Italy? Because last year this was wrong."
Woman at Vancouver Italian Consulate: "Boh. I only know what they tell me."

Olivia: "Excuse me, but is this the package I need to fill out for my working holiday permesso?
Post Office Dude #1: "How should I know? You should know. I just take the package and send it off."

Olivia: "Excuse me, I'm here on a working holiday visa, but no one seems to know what I need to do now to get my permesso. Can you help me?"
Woman at Canadian Consulate in Milan: "How should I know? The consulate where you picked it up should tell you. I work for Italians who want to go to Canada."

Olivia: "Excuse me, can you tell me what to do to turn my visa into a permesso?"
Man at Questura #2: "How should I know? What is this? This type of visa doesn't exist."

Olivia: "Excuse me, is this the right place to make my appointment at the questura?"
Post Office Dude #2: "Sure, no problem, I'll just need you to go here to get a stamp, pay for three other different receipts here, stand on your head, and here's your appointment for two weeks from now."
Olivia: "I am forever grateful."

Olivia: "I'm here for my appointment."
Man at Questura #2: "The system isn't working. I have never seen this type of visa before. You obviously made an appointment for the wrong questura. Go to this other place in a couple of weeks."

It took 30 days (and 30 nights), and countless people and questions to finally meet someone who knew exactly what my visa was for and what to do. I will marry him one day. That said, it's three weeks later and I'm still waiting for said permesso to be ready... in case you haven't already read this article, every word is true. And number 4. NUMBER 4.

But, let's finish this on a positive note. The other night I had a pizza and a half litre of wine for $10. In a restaurant. I win!